Creating a Beautiful Planted Aquarium Setup From Scratch

Creating a Beautiful Planted Aquarium Setup From Scratch

So, you’ve decided to create a planted aquarium setup — welcome to the jungle! Now, you’re ready to level up and create a stunning planted aquarium setup that looks straight out of a nature documentary. But where do you even start? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered. 

This guide will take you through everything you need to know, from picking the right tank to designing an aquascape that’ll make both you and your fish happy. Let’s dive in!

Watch how we set up our very first planted aquarium from scratch!: 

Step 1: Choose the Right Tank and Equipment

Before you start throwing plants into an empty tank, let’s talk about gear. A planted aquarium setup needs the right tools to keep those plants alive and thriving. 

Tank Size

Go bigger if you can. A larger tank (like a 20-gallon or larger) is easier to manage because it holds a more stable water environment. Smaller tanks (10 gallons or less) can work, but they require more maintenance since water parameters change quickly. 

Beginner tip: If you’re tight on space, a 10- or 15-gallon tank is a solid middle ground — small enough to fit anywhere, but big enough for stability.

We got our custom, 90-gallon tank from Custom Aquariums.  

Substrate

Plants need a proper foundation! Nutrient-rich substrate (Fluval Stratum, ADA Amazonia) is great for root-feeding plants because it contains built-in nutrients. Also, inert substrates (sand, gravel) look nice but don’t provide nutrients — so if you go this route, you’ll need root tabs to feed your plants.

Beginner tip: If you’re unsure, go for a nutrient-rich substrate. It makes plant growth way easier!

If you like the substrate we used in our video, we used Aquavitro Aquasolum and Seachem Flourite Black Sand

Bonus tip!: Use Seachem Zip Bags to keep the soil and sand separate (like the image below).

Planted Aquarium Setup — KaveMan using Seachem zip bags to separate the soil from the sand substrate 
KaveMan Aquatics

Lighting

Plants need light to grow, just like in nature. But how much and what type?

  • Low-light plants: These plants include Anubias and Java Fern. They need about 8 hours of moderate LED lighting per day.
  • Medium- to high-light plants: Carpeting plants, for example, need stronger, full-spectrum LED lighting to thrive.

Beginner tip: A good planted tank LED light (like Fluval Plant 3.0 or Nicrew SkyLED) will make a huge difference in plant health.

Filtration

Fish poop + decaying plants = ammonia. A filter helps remove waste and keep the tank balanced.

  • Sponge filters are gentle and great for shrimp or betta tanks.
  • Canister filters are stronger and better for larger tanks.

Beginner Tip: Pick a filter that turns over the tank’s water 4-6 times per hour (example: a 20-gallon tank needs a filter rated for 80-120 GPH).

CO₂

CO₂ is almost like plant steroids. It helps them grow faster and fuller. But do you need it?

  • Low-tech tanks (no added CO₂): Slower growth, but easier to maintain.
  • High-tech tanks (with CO₂ injection): Lush, fast-growing plants, but more expensive and requires balancing.

Beginner tip: If you’re just starting out, skip CO₂ for now. You can always upgrade later!

Step 2: Picking the Right Plants

Now for the fun part! But know that not all plants are beginner-friendly as some demand more care than a needy houseplant. Here’s a solid lineup of easy, low-maintenance plants to consider:

  • Java Fern: Nearly indestructible. Attach to rocks or driftwood.
  • Anubias: Grows slowly, thrives in low light, and doesn’t need fancy substrate.
  • Cryptocoryne: Great for midground, but melts when adjusting (don’t panic, it grows back!).
  • Amazon Sword: A large, leafy plant that makes a great centerpiece.
  • Hornwort: A floating plant that absorbs excess nutrients (helps prevent algae).

We got our plants from SR Aquaristik — be sure to use code KAVEMAN15 for a 15% discount!

Aquascaping 101

There’s so much to explore in aquascaping, but for now, let’s start simple. To create a balanced, natural look, layer your plants like this:

  • Foreground (front of the tank): Small plants like Dwarf Hairgrass, Monte Carlo.
  • Midground (middle of the tank): Bushy plants like Java Fern, Crypts.
  • Background (back of the tank): Tall plants like Amazon Swords, Vallisneria.

A mix of these will give your planted aquarium setup depth and a natural look.

Step 3: Hardscape and Layout

Now, let’s talk about design! The hardscape (rocks, wood, decorations) sets the foundation for an epic tank:

Planted Aquarium Setup — KaveMan’s hardscape and layout in progress
KaveMan Aquatics
  • Rocks: Dragon Stone, Seiryu Stone, Lava Rock — each offers a different vibe.
  • Driftwood: Spiderwood and Malaysian Driftwood add a natural touch.

Pro tip: Soak driftwood before adding it to prevent tannins from turning your water brown.

Aquascaping Styles to Try

  • Nature Style: Mimics real landscapes with plants and driftwood.
  • Iwagumi Style: Minimalist, uses only rocks and short plants.
  • Jungle Style: Wild and overgrown — it’s low-maintenance, high impact.

Beginner tip: Use the Rule of Thirds. Place focal points off-center for a more natural look.

Step 4: Planting Your Tank

Alright, time to plant! But first, let’s avoid the #1 beginner mistake — rushing the process. So here’s how you plant your plants without creating a floating chaos: 

  • Trim long roots before planting.
  • Use tweezers for precise positioning.
  • Anchor plants with small stones if they float.
Planted Aquarium Setup — KaveMan planting his aquarium plants using long tweezers
KaveMan Aquatics

Now, there is also something such as dry start vs. flooded planting. Here’s the difference: 

  • Dry start method: Let plants root in a humid environment before adding water (great for carpeting plants).
  • Traditional flooded planting: Plant everything with water already in the tank.

Step 5: Adding The Water

Next, water! But now that your layout is set and your plants are anchored, won’t the water make a mess? Nope! Keep these tips in mind:

  1. Use a plate, cup, or bag: Place a small dish, cup, bag, or bowl on the substrate before pouring water in. This prevents substrate from being disturbed and keeps plants from floating away.
  2. Pour slowly: Add dechlorinated water gently over the plate/cup to avoid stirring up debris.
  3. Use a hose or cup method: If using a hose, set the flow to low. If using a cup, pour gently to minimize cloudiness.
  4. Fill to the desired level: Leave about ½ inch from the top to prevent spills when maintaining the tank.
  5. Let the water settle: It might look cloudy at first — don’t worry! This will clear up as the filter starts running. 

Now, after you’ve added the water, here’s what you do: 

  • Turn on the filter: This helps clear up debris and circulate the water.
  • Check for floating plants: Replant any that got uprooted.
  • Adjust decorations if needed: Rocks or wood might shift slightly.
  • Test water parameters: If you’re cycling the tank, this is a good time to check ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

Beginner tip: If using tap water, always dechlorinate before adding it to your tank! Chlorine can harm beneficial bacteria and plants. We used Seachem Prime

Step 6: Cycling Your Tank

Before adding fish, your tank needs to cycle to establish beneficial bacteria. This takes 4-6 weeks and prevents toxic ammonia spikes. Here’s how to cycle your newly planted tank:

  • Add an ammonia source (fish food or bottled ammonia).
  • Test the water for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.
  • When ammonia and nitrites hit zero, and nitrates are low, it’s safe to add fish!

Beginner tip: Cycling takes 4-6 weeks — but you can speed it up by adding bacteria supplements.

Step 7: Following a Maintenance Schedule

Now that your planted aquarium setup is running, how do you keep it looking amazing? Here’s a basic schedule. 

Planted Aquarium Setup — KaveMan’s newly planted tank!
KaveMan Aquatics

Daily Tasks

  • Check the water temperature: Keep it stable based on plant and fish needs.
  • Observe plant health: Look for melting leaves, discoloration, or algae.
  • Monitor fish/shrimp/snail behavior: Ensure they’re active and healthy.
  • Check filter flow: Ensure it’s running properly and not clogged.

Every 2-3 Days

  • Top off evaporated water: Use dechlorinated or RO water to prevent TDS buildup.
  • Monitor algae growth: If algae appears, reduce light duration and adjust nutrients.
  • Test ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates: A new tank can have unstable parameters.

Weekly Tasks

  • Water Change (20-30%): Removes excess nutrients and waste.
  • Trim and replant: Remove dead leaves and trim fast-growing plants.
  • Check plant roots: Ensure they’re staying anchored and growing properly.
  • Dose fertilizers (if needed): Depending on plant needs (liquid ferts or root tabs).
  • Adjust lighting schedule if necessary: 6-8 hours is best for a new tank to prevent algae.
  • Clean glass and equipment: Use an algae scraper if needed.

Biweekly (Every 2 Weeks)

  • Clean filter (if needed): Rinse in tank water (not tap water) to preserve beneficial bacteria.
  • Check for pests: Look for unwanted hitchhikers like snails or planaria.

Monthly Tasks

  • Reevaluate plant placement: Some plants may need relocating for better growth.
  • Full water parameter check: Ensure stable ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and GH/KH.
  • Consider adding livestock: If your cycle is complete, slowly introduce fish or shrimp.

Once You Plant, You Can’t Go Back! 

A planted aquarium setup is equal parts science and art, but the most important ingredient? Patience. Start simple, learn from your tank, and tweak things as you go. Before you know it, you’ll have a thriving, jaw-dropping underwater masterpiece.

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